Engine Flush

 How to Perform an Engine Flush in Your Car

                                                              Instructions 

A subject that's been getting more attention these days is internal engine cleaning or flushing. This is being promoted by the quick oil-change people, among others, with the advice that if you clean out the engine of accumulated sludge, deposits and other disgusting stuff, it will run better and hopefully longer. Is this effective or not? As usual, when it comes to things automotive, the answer is both yes and no.

If you've read other articles on engine oils, you'll know that unless the oil is changed frequently, not only will the oil's "oiliness" will go away, but varnish and other compounds will form inside the engine. These get deposited at various places including the small oil galleys( passages) and begin to restrict oil flow-much in the way that cholesterol blocks flow in a similar, biological system.

Personally, I consider engine flushes a waste of money, but they can be beneficial, in certain limited situations. For example, an engine flush might be useful in a relatively low mileage car with 30,000-40,000 miles that hasn't had its oil changed as often as it should have been-such a car may be an off-lease car. At this point, cleaning the engines innards may prove to be beneficial because sludge and varnish buildup may not be that bad yet. Notice how many times the word "may" is used here-you can't really know for sure without taking the engine apart.

You may be able to get an idea of what the engine looks like inside if you're able to remove a valve cover. On some engines, where there aren't tons of hoses, lines and other things over it, it's all a matter of removing a few bolts. A clean engine will not have any encrusted deposits on the cover or any other deposits on the cylinder heads. I've seen engines where there's been so much coking (crusty deposits) that after the valve cover has been removed, that a perfect mold of the valve cover (writing and all) has been formed on top the cylinder head so it looks like the valve cover hasn't been removed at all! And I've seen engines that after the intake manifold has been removed (on a V-8) all you see is a huge mass of black carbon in the lifter valley. It's always amazed that such engines still run.

On a badly maintained engine, there's probably already too many deposits for the flushing chemicals to completely remove. But the real danger here is that the chemicals will dislodge enough crud that it will block the very small passages in hydraulic lifters or even clog up the fine mesh oil pump pickup screens. On such engines, you're better off changing the oil frequently, say around every 2,000 miles, so that the natural cleaning properties of the oil will reduce, somewhat, accumulated deposits.

If you insist on engine flushing, you can try this method. First, change the oil and filter and on a five quart capacity system, fill the engine with 4-1/2 quarts of 10W oil and a half quart of kerosene. Turn the engine on and let it run by itself for 10 minutes or so. Don't rev the engine! The drained oil should be quite dirty. Change oil and filter once again, with a regular grade of oil. This is a relatively mild cleaning but if your engine is really dirty, it's only a matter of time before it gives up the ghost.

TOP 10 QUESTIONS BEFORE BUYING A USED CAR FROM A PRIVATE SELLER

There are 10 questions you should ask before buying any used car. Some can be asked over the phone or via email before even seeing the vehicle in person. Others should be asked while looking at the used car. Not asking these questions could lead to problems in your used car purchase.

How many miles are on the odometer? (Best asked in advance.) This helps you determine a value before viewing the car. Go to a site like Edmunds.com with the information and determine a value for the car.
Why are you selling the car? (Best asked in advance.) There are too many variables to cover all of the possible answers but here are a few that are going to work to your advantage:
“I just bought a new car.” This is good because the seller is inspired to sell quickly.
“It was my mom’s (or dad’s).” Again, this is a good situation because few people want to hold on to a car in this situation. They need to sell it for the cash.
“It’s a gas guzzler.” Some people are going to be honest. Don’t be afraid to take advantage of the situation.

“It was my son’s car and he relocated/entered the service/bought his own car.” This might be a hard seller to negotiate with because there is no urgency for selling the car. This kind of seller tends to stick to the original price.
How would you describe your used car’s condition? (Best asked in advance.) There are three answers that should appeal to you:
Excellent – because the car is either going to be in excellent shape, which is always a good thing or it’s not and that means you’re dealing with a dishonest person. Walk away from any car described as excellent that clearly isn’t. The seller is trying to get one over on you.


Good – for largely the same reason as outlined above because a good used car is always a good value. Plus, an honest seller is not going to over-hype a used car.
Fair – indicates to me a seller who might not know the value of his or her car. Or, this could be a person willing to bargain. People who describe their used car as “fair” are either incredibly honest or timid.
Who was this vehicle bought from? (Asked when looking at the car.) The best answer is the seller is the original owner. (Regardless of prior ownership, always get a CarFax report.) All the maintenance records should be available. Plus, you don’t have to worry about salvage titles from original owners, typically. You might, though, depending on the answer to the next question.

Where was this car bought? (Asked when looking at the car.) This is a crucial fact to know – not just if it was bought from a dealer, but what state. Some states are very lenient about what defines a salvage title or allow vehicles to be sold from state-to-state without concerns for the used car’s past history. An owner could be the original owner, but move from another state and wash the title of a salvaged car. Also, a car’s geographical background can indicate the likelihood of specific weather related problems, such as cold winters in North Dakota or hot, baking summers in Arizona.

What kind of oil do you use in the car? (Asked when looking at the car.) Believe it or not, this is a strong indicator of how well maintained the vehicle has been. A private seller is going to answer this in three ways:
Immediately off the top of his or her head, which indicates they probably did the oil changes themselves and the vehicle is well maintained.
After a slight pause, ask if they can check their records. This also indicates the car has probably been well maintained. However, ask to look at the oil change records. If only one is available, be leery.
Answers either, “I don’t know” or gives an incorrect answer. Make sure your mechanic checks the engine out closely.

What are you willing to sell the car for? (Asked when looking at the car.) This lets the seller know you’re not going to pay the asking price. Depending on how long the seller has been trying to get rid of the car, he or she might come back with a pretty good discount. I faced a similar request when trying to sell a 1995 Honda Civic. I was asking a fair $4100 for it. A guy said he would pay me $3000 cash for it right there and then. I turned him down, but found out later the guy did this with every used Honda Civic advertised. It was a winning strategy for him.
How long of a test drive can I take? (Asked when looking at the car.) Obviously you never, ever buy a used car without a test drive, even though my dad did buy a new car once this way. No reputable seller will deny you a test drive. Most, though, will ask you to limit it to less than 30 minutes. Anything longer than that makes a private seller nervous, especially if he or she needs the car for transportation.
Are you willing to let me get this inspected independently? (Asked after test driving the car.) Any hesitation on the part of the seller should set of warning bells in your head. Don’t be swayed if the seller says no or tries to hard sell you on the car. The only answer you want to hear is, “Sure, no problem.”
What’s the last used car you sold? (Asked after test driving the car.) You might be surprised by the number of people who sell used cars as a hobby. They buy them cheaply, fix them up, and turn a tidy profit. Unfortunately, there are some unscrupulous folks who accomplish this by fixing up the cars just enough to get them sold. Sites like eBay Motors will have information on folks who are regular sellers. Be leery of backyard car dealerships. They’re unregulated, which offers you no protection if something goes wrong.

Pre-Purchase Check List

Use this checklist to evaluate any used car you are considering buying. Following this checklist assures you will cover all the bases when checking out a vehicle. Preliminaries Wear old clothes. Bring a rag for handling greasy or dirty items. If desired, also bring clean paper towels and a container of hand-cleaner for cleaning up after performing the inspection. Other items to bring: flashlight small magnet notepad pen or pencil copy of this checklist Tips If you are meeting a private party to look at a vehicle, try to get there 15 to 20 minutes early. You may discover the vehicle being prepared for your visit. Try to get the seller to set a time for you to see the vehicle when it has been sitting overnight. You want to see how it will start first thing in the morning. Always try to inspect vehicles during the day, when you can see better than at night. Don't be afraid to ask the seller to help or show you something. Take time to perform an inspection to your satisfaction. Don't hurry or let yourself be rushed. At some point during a test drive, try to drive at 20 to 30 mph beside a solid center median or beside a solid side wall. Open the window halfway and listen for sounds of the vehicle echoed by the hard surface. You should only hear the sound of the tires on the roadway. For practice, inspect a vehicle you already own. Doing so will familiarize you with the process and also provide a reference point for vehicles you are considering for purchase. Exterior Body Are seams where doors and fenders meet even and straight? Are seams where the hood and trunk meet the fenders even and straight? Does a magnet cling to all steel body panels? (Be sure to test fenders, the lower corners of doors, and rocker panels—the areas below doors. If a magnet doesn't cling, suspect body filler was used to repair rust or accident damage.) Are all body panels the same color? Has the car been recently repainted? (Look for signs of spray paint on moldings; also check the edges of the doors, hood, and trunk to be sure they are all the same color. Fresh paint may cover rust that will continue to progress.)   Tires Do all tires have the same amount of tread? Are all tires the same size? (Check tire size markings on tire sidewalls.) Are all tires the same brand? Is there a spare tire, jack, and lug wrench? If the vehicle has locking hubcaps, is there a key for removing them? Is the spare tire inflated (Press hard against the side with your thumb; the tire should be firm.)   Suspension Does the vehicle sit level? Bounce each corner of the vehicle. Do all corners respond the same? (Corners should only bounce once or twice before stopping.) Do you hear a creaking noise when bouncing the vehicle's corners? Frame Examine inside trunk, wheel wells, and under hood. Do you see areas that look like they have been crumpled and straightened? Look underneath each side of the vehicle for a row of holes in the frame just inside the vehicle's outer edge. Do holes appear scratched or recently cleaned? (If so, suspect the frame has been straightened after a crash.) Gas Cap and Filler Neck Is there a gas cap? Does it fit correctly? (If the cap locks, is there a key?) Remove the gas cap and check inside the filler neck. Is there a fuel-nozzle restrictor to prevent adding leaded fuel? (Most states require them.) Interior Is upholstery in good condition? (Look for tears, stains, and burns.) Are the dashboard and headliner in good condition? Do seats adjust easily? Are any window cranks, door locks, handles, dash controls or similar items missing? Do all interior lights and dash bulbs work? Does carpet condition match the age of the vehicle? Does carpeting smell of mildew or stale water, suggesting moisture underneath (or worse, flood damage)? Check under the dash at the top of the carpet. Are there stains suggesting heater core or air conditioner leakage? Accessories Do all accessories, such as the heater, air conditioner, audio system, and alarm system, operate fully? Test all functions of each. Engine Compartment Are there signs of oil or fluid leaks? Run the engine at full operating temperature. Are there abnormal smells that might be due to leaking fluids on hot engine parts? Are there unusual noises, such as clattering or metallic sounds, or sharp hissing, in the engine compartment when the engine is running? (Normal sound is smooth whirring of belts and fan.) Does anything appear to be missing? (Look for shiny or clean areas where parts may have been removed.) Under the Vehicle Are there fluid leaks on the underside of the engine and transmission, at axle ends, at brake line connections, or on the ground beneath the vehicle? Green fluid is usually antifreeze; reddish fluid is usually power steering or transmission fluid; dark brown or black fluid is usually oil or brake fluid. Are any parts loose, with the exception of exhaust parts slung from flexible rubber "donuts"? Does anything appear missing, such as bolts, clamps, brackets or cables? Are exhaust system parts rusty? Are there marks from scrapes, indicating the car has bottomed out on rocks or pavement? Examine exhaust when the car is operating at normal temperature. Do you see white or blue smoke? (Both can indicate an engine problem, especially if the smoke burns your eyes. A small amount of steam is normal, especially in cold weather.) Performance Engine Does the engine start easily? Does the engine stall at any time? Does the engine idle smoothly? Does the idle speed seem too slow or fast? Does the engine hesitate or stumble on acceleration? Does the engine run smoothly during operation? Does the engine seem to lack power? If the vehicle has cruise control, do all features work correctly? Do engine or other system warning lights appear? Does the engine diesel (continue running) when shut off? Transmission and Clutch Is automatic shifting smooth? On a manual-shift vehicle, is take-off smooth, without grabbing or jerking? On a manual-shift vehicle, accelerate hard in a higher gear (third or fourth) or while going uphill. If engine rpms rise without a corresponding increase in vehicle speed, the clutch could be slipping. It may need to be adjusted or replaced. On a manual-shift vehicle, try shifting to a lower gear when going slowly. Does the transmission shift easily, without grinding? 4-Wheel Drive Engage 4-wheel drive only on soft surfaces unless the owner's manual specifically says the feature can be used on hard-surfaced roads. On a suitable surface, test-drive the vehicle in forward and reverse with 4-wheel drive engaged. Does the vehicle shift smoothly in both directions? Turn tight corners to the right and left. Are there clunking sounds or other noises? Do the wheels bind or pull, whether turning or going straight? Brakes Apply the brakes several times at different speeds. Also try a sudden stop. Does the vehicle pull to one side when brakes are applied? Do brakes stop the vehicle adequately? If the vehicle has antilock brakes (ABS), try stopping suddenly. Do wheels lock? (A pulsing brake pedal is normal.) Does the parking brake hold firmly and release completely? Steering Does the vehicle pull to one side during normal operation? Is steering difficult at any speed? Turn sharply in both directions. Do you hear clunking or other noises, or feel rubbing or binding? Does the vehicle shake or vibrate while moving? (Take the vehicle up to freeway speed for this test.) Is the steering wheel centered when the vehicle is traveling straight ahead? Other Concerns Is there evidence of flood damage? By law, this information should be on the title. Signs are upholstery and carpet stains, odor, rust in normally dry areas such as beneath the dashboard and inside the glove compartment, powdery green or white residue inside lowest electrical connectors. Is the owners' manual in the vehicle? How about the operating instructions for any accessories, and any warranty information that still applies to items like tires and exhaust? Are previous repair and service records available? (Complete records are a sign that the owner has taken good care of the vehicle.) Does seller have clear title to vehicle?